Karoo Heartland

Helen Martins and Koos Malgas – Creators of the Owl House

Helen Martins and Koos Malgas – Creators of the Owl House

Outer appearances can be deceiving. In life, Helen Elizabeth Martins was a shy, retiring figure, rarely seen outside on the streets of Nieu Bethesda. But this recluse was the custodian of a magical inner kingdom that she breathed into life.

Born in Nieu Bethesda on 23 December 1897, Helen was the youngest of six children, and her early years gave little indication of what the future would hold. She finished her schooling in Graaff-Reinet with a teaching diploma, then married Johannes Pienaar, who was a teacher and dramatist.

Their marriage was not a happy one, and after seeing parts of the country, Helen returned to Nieu Bethesda in 1928 so that she could care for her frail parents. Her mother passed away in 1941; her father in 1945. Helen’s relationship with her father was troubled and she had moved him into an outside room later named The Lion’s Den, its walls painted black.

Helen Martins, the Outsider Artist, left a legacy that continues to inspire and intrigue visitors from around the world. Her unique art, filled with symbolism and personal references, offers a glimpse into her extraordinary mind and life.

It was only once she was on her own, that she sought to transform her home, as a reflection of her quest to bring wonder, magic and light into her existence. Her passion for and involvement in her work was to the detriment of her own health, which may have contributed to her increased reticence to being seen in public.

In order to accomplish the transformation of her environment, Helen Martins hired the services of local workmen. First Mr Jonas Adams, and then Mr Piet van der Merwe were employed with structural modifications to the interior of the house – mostly replacing original windows with the vast panes of glass that would bathe Miss Helens’ home in multi-coloured hues of light. And when Miss Helen turned her attention to the outside of her house, she asked Piet van der Merwe to help transform her ideas into reality. An early cement owl constructed by Piet remains in the Camel Yard today.

Helen Martins next employed itinerant sheepshearer and builder Koos Malgas. Koos also tried his hand at manufacturing cement and glass sculptures, and very quickly developed techniques for working with these difficult materials. Miss Helen obviously appreciated his ability to interpret her ideas and before long he was regularly employed on the creation of the Owl House. Every sculpture would be discussed beforehand, usually over early morning coffee in the kitchen, and although Miss Helen seldom did any of the physical work they would together engineer each new inspiration into being. This process developed into a uniquely symbiotic creative relationship that clearly defines Koos’ integral part in the creation of the Owl House. In all, Koos spent twelve years working with Helen Martins on the Camel Yard, until her death in 1976.

Helen, then 78, was crippled by arthritis and suffering increased loss of vision – the latter possibly damage caused through her working with ground glass. She took her own life by drinking a mixture containing caustic soda. She was rushed to hospital in Graaff-Reinet, where she died three days later, on August 8, 1976, though her legacy continues to bring joy and wonder to many who visit her home.

Koos Malgas stayed on in the district for a further two years, until he relocated to Worcester. The Owl House was declared a National Monument in 1986 and in 1991 Malgas was persuaded to return to Nieu-Bethesda where he was employed on restoration work to the Owl House until he retired in 1996. He passed away in 2000.

Miss Helen’s parents were buried in the Nieu-Bethesda Cemetery. There’s also an owl gravestone to her in the cemetery, although she was cremated and her ashes scattered in the Camel Yard of the Owl House.

The Graaff-Reinet Jewish community

The Graaff-Reinet Jewish community

FIRST JEW TO ARRIVE IN GRAAFF-REINET

Graaff-Reinet’s Jewish population was always small. It fluctuated with the prosperity of the village, but among the Jews who settled there were some who played major roles in South African history.

Isaac Baumann (who became one of the first mayors of Bloemfontein in 1849) was the first Jew to arrive in Graaff-Reinet. He came from Hesse-Cassel in Germany in 1837 and, once he had settled, he opened a trading store. Two years later, he was joined by relatives, Joseph Baumann and his wife, Rosa.  By 1854, his brothers Jacob and Louis had arrived and soon they were joined by another brother, August, and his wife Bertha, who arrived in 1862 and remained in Graaff-Reinet for almost 30 years. Among prominent family members were Dr Emil Baumann, an authority on child care, who became a Member of Parliament in 1933 and Richard, who established the law firm, Baumann & Gilfillan in Johannesburg in 1902.

The Mosenthal brothers, Adolph and Joseph, also from Hesse-Cassel, came to South Africa in about 1842 and they also settled in Graaff-Reinet where they set up their mercantile business. In time, it had a network of enterprises spanning almost the entire Eastern Cape/Karoo.  To staff these businesses and help them run their empire efficiently, they brought out scores of family members and friends. Among them were the Lilienfeld, Hanau, Hotfa, Alsberg, Nathan and Weinthal families. Edward Nathan served as mayor of Graaff-Reinet from 1862 to 1865; Emil Nathan became a prominent lawyer in Johannesburg and a member of the House of Assembly in 1910 and Dr Manfred Nathan became an Income Tax Court judge. He was also the author of several works on South African law and history and served as president of the Jewish Board of Deputies in 1906. Leo Weinthal became a well-known writer and journalist. He founded the Pretoria News in 1898. The Mosenthal’s also brought a Pole, Phoebus Caro, to Graaff-Reinet in 1856 after he survived a shipwreck.

OTHER PIONEERS

Among other Jewish pioneers of the 1850s and 1860s were the Benjamin brothers – Joseph and Michael Henry, who was elected to the Cape House of Assembly in 1864. Then came Maurice and Louis Joseph, Hermann Wertheim and a man called Rothschild. The town’s Hebrew congregation, the third to be established in South Africa was founded around 1850.   Ground for a Jewish cemetery, now one of the oldest cemeteries in South Africa, was granted by the governor, Sir George Grey and consecrated in 1858.  It was proclaimed a national monument in 1985, states the Jewish Digital Archives project. Over the years many Jewish settlers, came to the Karoo. Mostly they were from Germany and England, but only a few remained in the area because the region suffered through depression, war and droughts.

The Jewish population of Graaff-Reinet dwindled and almost died out during the 1880s, but it was revived again between 1890 -1910 with a new wave of immigrants, mostly from Lithuania and Latvia, where anti-Semitism was rife. Among those who came from Lithuania were the Balkind, Brett, Levy, Lipschitz and Michelson families. From Latvia came the Nurick, Rubens and Suttner families; the Herbsteins came from Rumania (Moritz Herbstein was the first chairman of the local Zionist Association, founded in the late 1890s and soon Graaff-Reinet became the centre of Jewish and Zionist life. His son, Mr Justice Joseph Herbstein was a judge of the Supreme Court in Cape Town from 1947 to 1963); the Gruss family came from Austria; the Bregers from Galicia; and John Ruben from England. The numbers of Jews in this part of the Karoo were boosted at the turn of the century by the Boer War when refugees from the then Transvaal poured into the region, but once again, in time, poor economic prospects forced many Jews to leave Graaff-Reinet.

RISE OF THE PEDDLERS

As sheep and goat farming increased in the Graaff-Reinet area so did wool and mohair production. The town’s most prosperous early years were from 1850 to 1860. During this time two Jewish doctors arrived as well as some traders, merchants and shopkeepers, including a butcher, furniture dealer, garage and bottle store owners, hoteliers, a cinema proprietor, accountant, solicitor and town engineer, soon joined the ranks. The Rosenthal’s trading stores led to the rise of Jewish peddlers. Known as ‘smouse’, they popped up across the Karoo and a monument honouring them was erected in Graaff-Reinet in 1989.

Others Jews to arrive in the Karoo included the Solomon, Raphael and Horwitz families. Harry Solomon became a member of the first Transvaal Legislative Council in 1903 and president of the Jewish Board of Deputies in 1904;  Frank Horwitz was a town councilor for 25 years and  twice elected mayor of Graaff-Reinet; and Sylvia Raphael was an Israeli Intelligence agent who served 22 months in a Norwegian jail in 1974 for her role in the murder of a suspected Black September terrorists.  Community records indicate that there were 37 Jewish families in Graaff-Reinet in 1875. The highest recorded number of Jews in this town was 82 in 1904.

Source – https://kehilalinks.jewishgen.org/graaff_reinet/Rose.html

James Kitching – Legendary fossil hunter of the Karoo

James Kitching – Legendary fossil hunter of the Karoo

As you walk around the Kitching Fossil Exploration Centre in the Karoo village of Nieu-Bethesda, you will see, among all the grinning skulls of ancient beasts, a battered old hat on display under glass.

It’s the hat of the man who helped confirm the theory of continental drift, and who had an ancient lizard-like species named after him when he was only a lad of 7. He was also known as the ‘grand old man of Karoo palaeontology’ – James Kitching, South Africa’s king of old-bone detectives. He grew up in what some call South Africa’s ‘palaeontological paradise’: the mountains and valleys around Nieu Bethesda, in Eastern Cape province. His dad was Croonie Kitching, a local road builder, who was always collecting bones and stones during his working day. Croonie roped young James in to hunt for fossils, and the 7-year-old soon found his first new species, which was then named Youngopsis kitchingi.

After World War II, James went to work as a fossil hunter for the brand-new Bernard Price Institute for Palaeontological Research at the University of the Witwatersrand in Johannesburg. But his real ‘office’ was 800km south, in the vastness of the Karoo. For decades, working on more than 900 sites, Kitching and his devoted field staff combed the Karoo for fossils. He was also famous for growing fresh vegetables and sourcing the best meat cuts wherever he camped. Visitors would describe a Kitching camp as being a beautiful little patch of green in the middle of the brown Karoo. Kitching developed a deep insight into life in the Permian Period, populated by mammal-like reptiles called therapsids. This was a crucial time, more than 251-million years ago, when reptiles began evolving into mammals. And Kitching was on their case – he was almost superhuman in his ability to spot a fossil lurking deep in a rock formation.


Not only did he find thousands of important pre-dinosaur fossils from more than 250-million years ago, but Kitching also established compelling evidence for the theory of continental drift. Nowadays, it’s not a controversial idea that Africa was once part of a much larger land mass (which we call Gondwana) that included Antarctica, India, South America and Australia – but in the 1970s, established science was still arguing about the ‘shifting continents’ theory fiercely.  At one stage, there was a lot of debate about whether Gondwana had ever existed, so Kitching was recruited to fly from Africa to Antarctica and look for fossils common to both continents. And it was there, on a rocky shelf with snow falling all around, that he and US colleague James Collinson found the fossilised skeleton of Thrinaxodon, just like the one Kitching had found near Bethulie in South Africa’s southern Free State.

Interviewed by the prestigious New Scientist magazine in 1996, Kitching had this to say about the length and breadth of his travels: ‘My colleagues here tell me I’ve walked the equivalent of three times round the globe, but I don’t believe them. I’d say it was only about once round the world…’

Read more about James Kitching on Wikipedia

Sandra Antrobus of Cradock: A tribute

Sandra Antrobus of Cradock: A tribute

https://www.litnet.co.za/sandra-antrobus-of-cradock-a-tribute/

Sandra Antrobus, a local farmer’s wife who restored an entire Victorian streetscape of houses in Market Street, Cradock. Her legacy remains in every one of these beautiful buildings.

The restored streetscape of Die Tuishuise and Victoria Manor Hotel is Cradock’s most recognisable tourism and heritage asset, along with the Great Fish River, the Mountain Zebra National Park and the gorgeous Moederkerk. It would never have happened without the love and passion of a local farming couple, Sandra and her husband Michael.

Market Street’s Tuishuise and the Victoria Manor Hotel stand as a legacy to Sandra Antrobus’s vision and passion.

When Sandra Moolman of Middleton near Somerset East married Michael Antrobus of Cradock in 1968, they set up home together at Longacre Farm on the banks of the Great Fish River, owned by his family since 1918. The farmhouse where they raised their children (Cherie, Lisa and Philip) is one of the oldest buildings in the district. The inner core of it was completed in 1794, a full 20 years before Cradock was founded. It has yellowwood ceiling beams the exact length of the wagon that originally transported them. Like most such buildings, it was added to in piecemeal fashion to accommodate growing families over the centuries.

It was clear to Sandra that the velour and vinyl furniture of the early seventies would never look right in such a venerable home. So it was Longacre that fired her lifelong passion for period furniture, antiques and their harmonious relationship with classic Karoo and Victorian building styles.

In 1975, a picturesque farmhouse called Doornhoek, within what is now the Mountain Zebra National Park, was chosen as the setting for one of the first filmed versions of The story of an African farm, arguably Olive Schreiner’s most famous book. Many locals from the Cradock district, where Schreiner had written her book, were used as extras – including Sandra’s older daughter, Cherie. A few years later, Sandra was asked to help restore the farmhouse, first built in 1838. Now a national monument, it remains one of the park’s most popular accommodation options.

Then came the 1980s, a decade when her life and that of Cradock would intersect and change forever.

From pumpkin beginnings

It all started when her husband, Michael, decided to plant pumpkins. But just before harvest, the beautiful vegetables were ruined by a hailstorm. Rather than waste them, the couple thriftily brought in some pigs to eat up the bounty.

Sandra made a profit selling the pumpkin-fat pigs, and with this windfall she bought up some period furniture. By now, she had restored the Longacre farmhouse and a building in Cradock “which was in total ruin”. This became her new antique store, called Die Wakis (The Wagon Chest).

Self-taught and passionate, Sandra became a home-grown expert on Karoo building styles, their escutcheons, and Bible-and-cross doors and architraves. She was a regular at the auctions and antique shops around the heritage-rich Eastern Cape.

Schreiner House

From 1868 to 1870, a young Olive Schreiner lived in a brakdak-style Karoo house in Cradock with her siblings Theo, Ettie and Will. In the mid-1980s, an insurance company bought the building and asked Sandra and other experts to help restore the house to what it would have looked like a century before, when the Schreiners lived there. The house, now a national monument, was later donated to the National English Language Museum, now Amazwi (the South African Museum of Literature).

“While I was working on the Schreiner house in Cross Street, I would drive there via Market Street, and I itched to restore all those other old cottages.”

Most of the residences in Market Street were built in the 1850s and had once belonged to artisans who made and fixed wagons, wheels, whips and harnesses. As time passed, schoolteachers and bank managers moved in. It was a thriving and interesting part of town, but sank into a spiral of neglect for decades after the national railway system and the motor car replaced horses and ox wagons.

Sandra bought one old house for a song, then another and another, restoring them with no precise goal in mind. But things became much clearer when a rather avant-garde movie was filmed in Cradock. Released in 1987, An African dream starred John Kani and was about friendship and relationships across colour lines. By then, Sandra had renovated the first cottage in Market Street and called it Victoria House. But it wasn’t nearly enough for the 50 people who made up the film crew and actors.

“I hired and furnished houses for them all over town. It was a tremendous injection of income into Cradock.”

The film had the effect of making Sandra think bigger. She and Cherie worked side by side, renovating more houses, and accommodating and feeding tourists.

The magic street

Today, the Tuishuise complex embraces about 30 houses and cottages, an entire preserved streetscape unique in South Africa. Each house is like an authentic Karoo home, and just as welcoming.

Sandra could often be seen in Market Street with a team of handymen, constantly maintaining Die Tuishuise and Victoria Manor Hotel.

Few truly appreciate how much dedication to detail this took. Many of the houses had been clumsily modernised over the years, several sporting inappropriate metal-frame windows. These had to be replaced with original sash windows – more than 100 of them – along with about 50 Bible-and-cross doors.

The Victoria Manor Hotel at the end of the road, also built in the 1850s, degenerated into a bit of a dive until Sandra bought it in 1994. She really only wanted the kitchen and dining room section. But she couldn’t resist fixing up the rooms, one by one.

Sandra Antrobus and her two daughters, Cherie and Lisa.

Lisa Ker and husband Dave signed up with the business in 2004, handling the marketing, staff and administration. Cherie also rejoined a few years later, taking charge of the kitchens and bar.

It wasn’t only Market Street that Sandra worked on. She also fought hard to preserve Cradock’s heritage, preventing many historic houses from being knocked down or insensitively altered. She was the force behind Cradock’s Heritage Committee.

A family affair

“So it is a real family enterprise of old-fashioned Karoo values, hospitality and heritage,” Sandra once told us. “We know we can trust one another.”

The Tuishuise and Victoria Manor support no fewer than 40 staff – a major job creator for a small town like Cradock. Some of them have been here for more than 20 years.

“For every guest at all times, there is a friendly smile, a helpful touch and time to chat. This is the real magic of our hotel,” said Lisa.

Houses that are over 150 years old often need tweaks and repairs.

Few people of any age could keep up with Sandra. She was a woman powered by tea, starting with the five cups that Michael made her every morning. This was their special time together. Then she would be off and running. By 8:30 am, while guests were having breakfast, Sandra was walking up and down the street checking what needed to be done, after having a quick chat with night porter Vernon Douglas.

In the afternoon, Sandra would usually be found sitting at a small table in the reception area, welcoming arriving guests in person, going over the rooming list and having intermittent meetings with Lisa, Cherie, Dave and the hotel’s unofficial majordomo, Amos Nteta.

They brought us to the Karoo

Our connection to Michael and Sandra Antrobus began in 2003, while we were on a magazine assignment through the Eastern Cape and staying overnight at Die Tuishuise. We interviewed them over a long, at times hilarious, lunch out at Longacre Farm.

Michael and Sandra Antrobus on the banks of the Great Fish River, which runs past their farm, Longacre.

This extraordinary couple made such an impression on us that within a few hours, we were thinking: these are the kind of people we want to live with. They were kind, humorous, gracious, hospitable, plucky, well informed and generous with their knowledge. It was not long before we bought a house in Cradock, made the permanent move from Joburg and put down roots in this little river town.

The best mentor

Over the years and during all manner of extended road trips and local adventures together, Michael became a special mentor to us. There was so much going on in his head. He could recite poetry from Guy Butler, he could name the geological layers and special qualities of the Karoo Supergroup, he knew the arcane names of fossils, he told us not only about the grasses but about their various uses, and he pointed out the palatable bossies in the veld.

We called him a philosopher-farmer, but in reality Michael Antrobus was much more. Much more. He saw the whole picture, how the geology and the soil and the biodynamics underpinned everything. He delighted in lending us books he thought might help us really get to know the Karoo.

Michael observed everything. He remembered conversations from long ago. He taught us about the issues that plagued local farmers. He delighted in making puns, both crackingly funny and excruciatingly bad.

The Mountain Zebra National Park out there on Cradock’s doorstep was, in Michael’s opinion, just one of the finest in the country, especially from a scenic point of view. He told us how the English played chess up in the steeple of the Moederkerk and out at Saltpeterkrans, heliographing their moves to one another, and how the local boers, who spoke excellent English, would intercept the messages.

When he and Sandra moved to town, he referred to himself as a second-hand farmer.

“What can an old farmer do? Well, as a friend of mine said, we can still count sheep, but they must darem come slowly.”

And each time we published a new book on the Karoo, Michael and Sandra always got the very first copy, handed over with love and admiration.

Sandra Antrobus in front of the 40 Something, one of the distinctive Tuishuise cottages of Market Street, Cradock.

Michael passed away on 16 July 2018 and Sandra on 8 April 2025. But their legacy will live on in Cradock’s Market Street, through their legendary hospitality and via their children.

John Kepe, the Bandit of the Boschberg

John Kepe, the Bandit of the Boschberg

During the late 1940s and early 1950s a notorious vagabond called John Kepe had the town of Somerset East up in arms with a series of petty burglaries, incidences of stock theft and mountainside muggings on the locals.
John Kepe
By the year 1950, local police were logging approximately one incident a week of stock theft and house burglaries from farmers in the Boschberg area. In the meantime, Kepe had succeeded in keeping his true identity as the mysterious Boschberg outlaw a secret. He came into town from time to time to socialise at the community drinking hall and would even join search parties and go on the hunt for himself. John Kepe had garnered a reputation among locals. He lived in a secret cave up in the Boschberg and stashed all his ill-gotten gains in another cave nearby.
John Kepe
In December 1951 Kepe killed a shepherd and the search for him was stepped up. On the night of 25 February 1952, he was arrested in an ambush and later found guilty by a court of law and executed by hanging at the Pretoria.
A film called “Sew the Winter to My Skin” based on the story of Kepe came out in 2018.
John Kepe
Robert Hart – Father of Somerset East

Robert Hart – Father of Somerset East

The early history of Somerset East and Glen Avon Farm is tied to the history of Robert Hart.
When Robert Hart stepped off a boat at the Cape of Good Hope in 1795, he was 18 years old, a private in the Argyllshire Highlanders and penniless. Yet this young Scottish lad was destined to play a major role in taming the old Cape colony’s wild eastern flank. After surviving the dangers of being a soldier on the turbulent eastern frontier, he took a short break in England before returning to the Cape Colony in 1807 as a commissioned officer in Colonel Graham’s newly formed Cape Regiment.
By now he was also married to Hannah Tamplin, and the couple settled at the military base that later became Grahamstown. After a while, Robert took over Somerset farm, established in the Zuurveld by the government to supply the army. While there the Harts welcomed the Scottish party of 1820 settlers who ventured inland to the Baviaans River valley. Those were tough times for the Scots, but luckily they had a helpful friend in Robert.
In 1825 Somerset Farm was shut down and the land was set aside for the new town of Somerset East. Left with a small state pension, Robert Hart moved with his family to land he had acquired a short distance away in a fertile valley below the Bosberg. A beautiful place he named Glen Avon.
 
Through hard work and great insight, he soon made his farm a landmark in the region. He bred top merino sheep, a breed introduced to SA by Colonel Graham, and so contributed greatly to what became an important industry. His orchards produced a fantastic bounty of fruits, especially citrus, and his flood-irrigated fields delivered huge harvests of grain that soon justified a private mill. The machinery for this was shipped out from Scotland and then transported by ox wagon from Algoa Bay over the Zuurberg Pass. The mill could produce two tons of meal a day and soon Robert was grinding all the wheat grown between Pearston, Ann’s Villa and Zwagershoek.
The amazing legacy of Robert Hart, who died in 1867 at the ripe old age of 90, is remarkable because everything has been so well looked after by his direct descendants. Their dedication preserved the old mill and the two homesteads as well as Hart Cottage.
 
But who and what was Robert Hart?
Robert Hart, II
Birthdate: January 05, 1777
Birthplace: Strathaven, Avondale, Lanarkshire, Scotland (United Kingdom)
Death: September 14, 1867 (90)
Place of Death: ‘Glen Avon’ Farm, Somerset East, Cape Colony, South Africa
Place of Burial: Cape Colony, South Africa
Immediate Family:
Son of James Hart, III and Isabel Hart
Husband of Hannah May Hart
Father of Ann Stretch; Harriet Hart; Susannah Hart; Robert Hart, III; Caroline Hart; Cecilia Hart; Margaretha Birt. Fleischer; Eleanor Evelyn Pringle; Sarah Elizabeth Bowker (Hart); Richard Hart and Lieut. James Hart IV
Brother of Andrew Hart and Grizel Campbell (Hart)
Occupation: Soldier (Captain), Farmer and Businessman