Karoo Heartland

Karoo Lamb

Karoo Lamb

The Karoo, a lonely corner of the earth and home to one of our living treasures: sheep that graze in their time among scattered bushes. Karoo Lamb boasts a certificate of origin (geographical indication), just like Rooibos, French Champagne and Italy’s Parma ham. Only sheep that graze in an area with at least two of six indigenous bushes, from anchor karoo to kapok bush and brak ganna, carry the crown. According to the statement that explains this status, kapok bush, also called wild rosemary, is “a favourite food of the sheep and one of the seasonings that gives Karoo lamb its unique flavour”. Or as the farmers of that part of the world like to say: “flavoured on the hoof”.

         

Karoo Lamb

One of the objectives of the Karoo Development Foundation is to protect the natural and cultural assets of the Karoo against misappropriation and to make sure the people of the Karoo are able to extract value and a decent livelihood from exploiting, in a sustainable way, these assets. One of these well-known assets of the region is certainly “Karoo Lamb”. This name has unfortunately over the years been abused and falsely attributed to lamb from other regions.

One of the first achievements of the KDF was to act on the requests from the Karoo farmers and Karoo abattoirs to find a sensible way of protecting the name Karoo lamb. After many years of consultation with farmers and communities in the Karoo the KDF successfully registered a certification mark (Karoo Meat of Origin) and a protocol for a certification scheme in 2010/11. This made it possible that Karoo Lamb may only be called Karoo Lamb if it complies with the rules of certification. As a result of the initial work by the KDF the South African government could submit the certification rules to the EU, which enabled Karoo Lamb to be protected in the EU market after the new Free trade Agreement between the EU and South Africa, was signed in October 2016. The certification scheme was operated by the “Karoo Lamb Consortium”.

The certification mark did, unfortunately, not prevent other trademarks and quality marks to be registered using the Karoo Lamb words and indications. It was only until the Department of Agriculture published the regulations for ‘Geographical Indications in 2019 and amended in 2023, that it was possible to obtain public protection for the name “Karoo Lamb”.

In terms of regulations R.3023 of 10 February 2023 a group of producers can apply to the Department of Agriculture to register a Geographical indication (GI). These rules now made it possible for the Karoo Lamb Consortium to submit an application for the registration of Karoo Lamb as an official South African GI. The application and the supporting documents and empirical evidence was submitted and opened for public comment. No objections were received and on 27 October 2023 the Karoo Lamb GI was officially gazetted. Basically 15 years since members of the KDF joined the various teams to investigate the various options for protection.

Karoo Lamb now has its own law and is now on par with Rooibos, Champagne, Parma Ham and Parmigiana Reggiano and other famous food products with an origin identity.

         

Rules and Specifications of Karoo Lamb

The details of the rules for Karoo Lamb is available in the Government Gazette of 27 October 2023 . The basic recipe is however very simple and signals the following:

Lamb originates from the Karoo in that the sheep were born in the Karoo or raised in the Karoo region for at least six continuous months before slaughtering.
Sheep grazed freely on natural veldt and were not raised in feedlots.
The animals did not graze on permanent pastures six months before slaughtering.
No growth hormones were used.
Carcass classification
Age classes A
Fat classes 1 to 6
Carcass conformation 3 to 5
The Code of Practice of Good Stockmanship and Animal Welfare Practices have been adhered to.
Meat can be traced back to the farm of origin.
Slaughtering and processing facilities comply with official food safety standards including HACCP.

Source – www.karoolamb.org     

Giant Earthworms of the Karoo

Giant Earthworms of the Karoo

A Karoo thunderstorm is a wondrous, scary thing. This is a time when giant two-metre earthworms rear up out of their burrows and find a road to cross. Startled motorists spot them more often than scientists.

South Africa has the largest earthworm ever found, according to the international Worm Digest digital archives. A giant worm measuring nearly seven metres (22 feet) was found beside a road near King William’s Town back in 1967.

Australians, who have the much smaller Giant Gippsland Earthworm (only one metre long, on average), devote a whole worm-shaped museum to them. And they’ve put them under protection, because the worms were thought to be vanishing fast because of pesticide use.

No one yet seems too concerned about whether our slimy Karoo Big Boys are also vanishing. Or even to what extent they have added to the still-impressive fertility of the Karoo soils.

Microchaetus skeadi shows a preference for the Karoo and Eastern Cape, and although seldom seen, is listed as of the most interesting inhabitants of the Mountain Zebra National Park near Cradock.

Giant earthworms are preyed upon by giant golden moles and also the odd person seeking fishing bait.

       

The late Jan Pampoen of Steytlerville would sometimes grab a crowbar, climb on a bicycle and go to the town’s desert-like golf course after rains to look for earthworm mounds and casts. About half a metre underground, he’d find two, three or four of these big earthworms, all wound together. He used to sell fishermen wanting to catch barbel or eel in the Gamtoos River. Or to lodge owners who want to show their bug-eyed guests that there’s always something strange in a Karoo neighbourhood.

Source – karoospace
Pictures – Orange Grove Farm

Helen Martins and Koos Malgas – Creators of the Owl House

Helen Martins and Koos Malgas – Creators of the Owl House

Outer appearances can be deceiving. In life, Helen Elizabeth Martins was a shy, retiring figure, rarely seen outside on the streets of Nieu Bethesda. But this recluse was the custodian of a magical inner kingdom that she breathed into life.

Born in Nieu Bethesda on 23 December 1897, Helen was the youngest of six children, and her early years gave little indication of what the future would hold. She finished her schooling in Graaff-Reinet with a teaching diploma, then married Johannes Pienaar, who was a teacher and dramatist.

Their marriage was not a happy one, and after seeing parts of the country, Helen returned to Nieu Bethesda in 1928 so that she could care for her frail parents. Her mother passed away in 1941; her father in 1945. Helen’s relationship with her father was troubled and she had moved him into an outside room later named The Lion’s Den, its walls painted black.

Helen Martins, the Outsider Artist, left a legacy that continues to inspire and intrigue visitors from around the world. Her unique art, filled with symbolism and personal references, offers a glimpse into her extraordinary mind and life.

It was only once she was on her own, that she sought to transform her home, as a reflection of her quest to bring wonder, magic and light into her existence. Her passion for and involvement in her work was to the detriment of her own health, which may have contributed to her increased reticence to being seen in public.

In order to accomplish the transformation of her environment, Helen Martins hired the services of local workmen. First Mr Jonas Adams, and then Mr Piet van der Merwe were employed with structural modifications to the interior of the house – mostly replacing original windows with the vast panes of glass that would bathe Miss Helens’ home in multi-coloured hues of light. And when Miss Helen turned her attention to the outside of her house, she asked Piet van der Merwe to help transform her ideas into reality. An early cement owl constructed by Piet remains in the Camel Yard today.

Helen Martins next employed itinerant sheepshearer and builder Koos Malgas. Koos also tried his hand at manufacturing cement and glass sculptures, and very quickly developed techniques for working with these difficult materials. Miss Helen obviously appreciated his ability to interpret her ideas and before long he was regularly employed on the creation of the Owl House. Every sculpture would be discussed beforehand, usually over early morning coffee in the kitchen, and although Miss Helen seldom did any of the physical work they would together engineer each new inspiration into being. This process developed into a uniquely symbiotic creative relationship that clearly defines Koos’ integral part in the creation of the Owl House. In all, Koos spent twelve years working with Helen Martins on the Camel Yard, until her death in 1976.

Helen, then 78, was crippled by arthritis and suffering increased loss of vision – the latter possibly damage caused through her working with ground glass. She took her own life by drinking a mixture containing caustic soda. She was rushed to hospital in Graaff-Reinet, where she died three days later, on August 8, 1976, though her legacy continues to bring joy and wonder to many who visit her home.

Koos Malgas stayed on in the district for a further two years, until he relocated to Worcester. The Owl House was declared a National Monument in 1986 and in 1991 Malgas was persuaded to return to Nieu-Bethesda where he was employed on restoration work to the Owl House until he retired in 1996. He passed away in 2000.

Miss Helen’s parents were buried in the Nieu-Bethesda Cemetery. There’s also an owl gravestone to her in the cemetery, although she was cremated and her ashes scattered in the Camel Yard of the Owl House.

The Graaff-Reinet Jewish community

The Graaff-Reinet Jewish community

FIRST JEW TO ARRIVE IN GRAAFF-REINET

Graaff-Reinet’s Jewish population was always small. It fluctuated with the prosperity of the village, but among the Jews who settled there were some who played major roles in South African history.

Isaac Baumann (who became one of the first mayors of Bloemfontein in 1849) was the first Jew to arrive in Graaff-Reinet. He came from Hesse-Cassel in Germany in 1837 and, once he had settled, he opened a trading store. Two years later, he was joined by relatives, Joseph Baumann and his wife, Rosa.  By 1854, his brothers Jacob and Louis had arrived and soon they were joined by another brother, August, and his wife Bertha, who arrived in 1862 and remained in Graaff-Reinet for almost 30 years. Among prominent family members were Dr Emil Baumann, an authority on child care, who became a Member of Parliament in 1933 and Richard, who established the law firm, Baumann & Gilfillan in Johannesburg in 1902.

The Mosenthal brothers, Adolph and Joseph, also from Hesse-Cassel, came to South Africa in about 1842 and they also settled in Graaff-Reinet where they set up their mercantile business. In time, it had a network of enterprises spanning almost the entire Eastern Cape/Karoo.  To staff these businesses and help them run their empire efficiently, they brought out scores of family members and friends. Among them were the Lilienfeld, Hanau, Hotfa, Alsberg, Nathan and Weinthal families. Edward Nathan served as mayor of Graaff-Reinet from 1862 to 1865; Emil Nathan became a prominent lawyer in Johannesburg and a member of the House of Assembly in 1910 and Dr Manfred Nathan became an Income Tax Court judge. He was also the author of several works on South African law and history and served as president of the Jewish Board of Deputies in 1906. Leo Weinthal became a well-known writer and journalist. He founded the Pretoria News in 1898. The Mosenthal’s also brought a Pole, Phoebus Caro, to Graaff-Reinet in 1856 after he survived a shipwreck.

OTHER PIONEERS

Among other Jewish pioneers of the 1850s and 1860s were the Benjamin brothers – Joseph and Michael Henry, who was elected to the Cape House of Assembly in 1864. Then came Maurice and Louis Joseph, Hermann Wertheim and a man called Rothschild. The town’s Hebrew congregation, the third to be established in South Africa was founded around 1850.   Ground for a Jewish cemetery, now one of the oldest cemeteries in South Africa, was granted by the governor, Sir George Grey and consecrated in 1858.  It was proclaimed a national monument in 1985, states the Jewish Digital Archives project. Over the years many Jewish settlers, came to the Karoo. Mostly they were from Germany and England, but only a few remained in the area because the region suffered through depression, war and droughts.

The Jewish population of Graaff-Reinet dwindled and almost died out during the 1880s, but it was revived again between 1890 -1910 with a new wave of immigrants, mostly from Lithuania and Latvia, where anti-Semitism was rife. Among those who came from Lithuania were the Balkind, Brett, Levy, Lipschitz and Michelson families. From Latvia came the Nurick, Rubens and Suttner families; the Herbsteins came from Rumania (Moritz Herbstein was the first chairman of the local Zionist Association, founded in the late 1890s and soon Graaff-Reinet became the centre of Jewish and Zionist life. His son, Mr Justice Joseph Herbstein was a judge of the Supreme Court in Cape Town from 1947 to 1963); the Gruss family came from Austria; the Bregers from Galicia; and John Ruben from England. The numbers of Jews in this part of the Karoo were boosted at the turn of the century by the Boer War when refugees from the then Transvaal poured into the region, but once again, in time, poor economic prospects forced many Jews to leave Graaff-Reinet.

RISE OF THE PEDDLERS

As sheep and goat farming increased in the Graaff-Reinet area so did wool and mohair production. The town’s most prosperous early years were from 1850 to 1860. During this time two Jewish doctors arrived as well as some traders, merchants and shopkeepers, including a butcher, furniture dealer, garage and bottle store owners, hoteliers, a cinema proprietor, accountant, solicitor and town engineer, soon joined the ranks. The Rosenthal’s trading stores led to the rise of Jewish peddlers. Known as ‘smouse’, they popped up across the Karoo and a monument honouring them was erected in Graaff-Reinet in 1989.

Others Jews to arrive in the Karoo included the Solomon, Raphael and Horwitz families. Harry Solomon became a member of the first Transvaal Legislative Council in 1903 and president of the Jewish Board of Deputies in 1904;  Frank Horwitz was a town councilor for 25 years and  twice elected mayor of Graaff-Reinet; and Sylvia Raphael was an Israeli Intelligence agent who served 22 months in a Norwegian jail in 1974 for her role in the murder of a suspected Black September terrorists.  Community records indicate that there were 37 Jewish families in Graaff-Reinet in 1875. The highest recorded number of Jews in this town was 82 in 1904.

Source – https://kehilalinks.jewishgen.org/graaff_reinet/Rose.html

James Kitching – Legendary fossil hunter of the Karoo

James Kitching – Legendary fossil hunter of the Karoo

As you walk around the Kitching Fossil Exploration Centre in the Karoo village of Nieu-Bethesda, you will see, among all the grinning skulls of ancient beasts, a battered old hat on display under glass.

It’s the hat of the man who helped confirm the theory of continental drift, and who had an ancient lizard-like species named after him when he was only a lad of 7. He was also known as the ‘grand old man of Karoo palaeontology’ – James Kitching, South Africa’s king of old-bone detectives. He grew up in what some call South Africa’s ‘palaeontological paradise’: the mountains and valleys around Nieu Bethesda, in Eastern Cape province. His dad was Croonie Kitching, a local road builder, who was always collecting bones and stones during his working day. Croonie roped young James in to hunt for fossils, and the 7-year-old soon found his first new species, which was then named Youngopsis kitchingi.

After World War II, James went to work as a fossil hunter for the brand-new Bernard Price Institute for Palaeontological Research at the University of the Witwatersrand in Johannesburg. But his real ‘office’ was 800km south, in the vastness of the Karoo. For decades, working on more than 900 sites, Kitching and his devoted field staff combed the Karoo for fossils. He was also famous for growing fresh vegetables and sourcing the best meat cuts wherever he camped. Visitors would describe a Kitching camp as being a beautiful little patch of green in the middle of the brown Karoo. Kitching developed a deep insight into life in the Permian Period, populated by mammal-like reptiles called therapsids. This was a crucial time, more than 251-million years ago, when reptiles began evolving into mammals. And Kitching was on their case – he was almost superhuman in his ability to spot a fossil lurking deep in a rock formation.


Not only did he find thousands of important pre-dinosaur fossils from more than 250-million years ago, but Kitching also established compelling evidence for the theory of continental drift. Nowadays, it’s not a controversial idea that Africa was once part of a much larger land mass (which we call Gondwana) that included Antarctica, India, South America and Australia – but in the 1970s, established science was still arguing about the ‘shifting continents’ theory fiercely.  At one stage, there was a lot of debate about whether Gondwana had ever existed, so Kitching was recruited to fly from Africa to Antarctica and look for fossils common to both continents. And it was there, on a rocky shelf with snow falling all around, that he and US colleague James Collinson found the fossilised skeleton of Thrinaxodon, just like the one Kitching had found near Bethulie in South Africa’s southern Free State.

Interviewed by the prestigious New Scientist magazine in 1996, Kitching had this to say about the length and breadth of his travels: ‘My colleagues here tell me I’ve walked the equivalent of three times round the globe, but I don’t believe them. I’d say it was only about once round the world…’

Read more about James Kitching on Wikipedia

Sandra Antrobus of Cradock: A tribute

Sandra Antrobus of Cradock: A tribute

https://www.litnet.co.za/sandra-antrobus-of-cradock-a-tribute/

Sandra Antrobus, a local farmer’s wife who restored an entire Victorian streetscape of houses in Market Street, Cradock. Her legacy remains in every one of these beautiful buildings.

The restored streetscape of Die Tuishuise and Victoria Manor Hotel is Cradock’s most recognisable tourism and heritage asset, along with the Great Fish River, the Mountain Zebra National Park and the gorgeous Moederkerk. It would never have happened without the love and passion of a local farming couple, Sandra and her husband Michael.

Market Street’s Tuishuise and the Victoria Manor Hotel stand as a legacy to Sandra Antrobus’s vision and passion.

When Sandra Moolman of Middleton near Somerset East married Michael Antrobus of Cradock in 1968, they set up home together at Longacre Farm on the banks of the Great Fish River, owned by his family since 1918. The farmhouse where they raised their children (Cherie, Lisa and Philip) is one of the oldest buildings in the district. The inner core of it was completed in 1794, a full 20 years before Cradock was founded. It has yellowwood ceiling beams the exact length of the wagon that originally transported them. Like most such buildings, it was added to in piecemeal fashion to accommodate growing families over the centuries.

It was clear to Sandra that the velour and vinyl furniture of the early seventies would never look right in such a venerable home. So it was Longacre that fired her lifelong passion for period furniture, antiques and their harmonious relationship with classic Karoo and Victorian building styles.

In 1975, a picturesque farmhouse called Doornhoek, within what is now the Mountain Zebra National Park, was chosen as the setting for one of the first filmed versions of The story of an African farm, arguably Olive Schreiner’s most famous book. Many locals from the Cradock district, where Schreiner had written her book, were used as extras – including Sandra’s older daughter, Cherie. A few years later, Sandra was asked to help restore the farmhouse, first built in 1838. Now a national monument, it remains one of the park’s most popular accommodation options.

Then came the 1980s, a decade when her life and that of Cradock would intersect and change forever.

From pumpkin beginnings

It all started when her husband, Michael, decided to plant pumpkins. But just before harvest, the beautiful vegetables were ruined by a hailstorm. Rather than waste them, the couple thriftily brought in some pigs to eat up the bounty.

Sandra made a profit selling the pumpkin-fat pigs, and with this windfall she bought up some period furniture. By now, she had restored the Longacre farmhouse and a building in Cradock “which was in total ruin”. This became her new antique store, called Die Wakis (The Wagon Chest).

Self-taught and passionate, Sandra became a home-grown expert on Karoo building styles, their escutcheons, and Bible-and-cross doors and architraves. She was a regular at the auctions and antique shops around the heritage-rich Eastern Cape.

Schreiner House

From 1868 to 1870, a young Olive Schreiner lived in a brakdak-style Karoo house in Cradock with her siblings Theo, Ettie and Will. In the mid-1980s, an insurance company bought the building and asked Sandra and other experts to help restore the house to what it would have looked like a century before, when the Schreiners lived there. The house, now a national monument, was later donated to the National English Language Museum, now Amazwi (the South African Museum of Literature).

“While I was working on the Schreiner house in Cross Street, I would drive there via Market Street, and I itched to restore all those other old cottages.”

Most of the residences in Market Street were built in the 1850s and had once belonged to artisans who made and fixed wagons, wheels, whips and harnesses. As time passed, schoolteachers and bank managers moved in. It was a thriving and interesting part of town, but sank into a spiral of neglect for decades after the national railway system and the motor car replaced horses and ox wagons.

Sandra bought one old house for a song, then another and another, restoring them with no precise goal in mind. But things became much clearer when a rather avant-garde movie was filmed in Cradock. Released in 1987, An African dream starred John Kani and was about friendship and relationships across colour lines. By then, Sandra had renovated the first cottage in Market Street and called it Victoria House. But it wasn’t nearly enough for the 50 people who made up the film crew and actors.

“I hired and furnished houses for them all over town. It was a tremendous injection of income into Cradock.”

The film had the effect of making Sandra think bigger. She and Cherie worked side by side, renovating more houses, and accommodating and feeding tourists.

The magic street

Today, the Tuishuise complex embraces about 30 houses and cottages, an entire preserved streetscape unique in South Africa. Each house is like an authentic Karoo home, and just as welcoming.

Sandra could often be seen in Market Street with a team of handymen, constantly maintaining Die Tuishuise and Victoria Manor Hotel.

Few truly appreciate how much dedication to detail this took. Many of the houses had been clumsily modernised over the years, several sporting inappropriate metal-frame windows. These had to be replaced with original sash windows – more than 100 of them – along with about 50 Bible-and-cross doors.

The Victoria Manor Hotel at the end of the road, also built in the 1850s, degenerated into a bit of a dive until Sandra bought it in 1994. She really only wanted the kitchen and dining room section. But she couldn’t resist fixing up the rooms, one by one.

Sandra Antrobus and her two daughters, Cherie and Lisa.

Lisa Ker and husband Dave signed up with the business in 2004, handling the marketing, staff and administration. Cherie also rejoined a few years later, taking charge of the kitchens and bar.

It wasn’t only Market Street that Sandra worked on. She also fought hard to preserve Cradock’s heritage, preventing many historic houses from being knocked down or insensitively altered. She was the force behind Cradock’s Heritage Committee.

A family affair

“So it is a real family enterprise of old-fashioned Karoo values, hospitality and heritage,” Sandra once told us. “We know we can trust one another.”

The Tuishuise and Victoria Manor support no fewer than 40 staff – a major job creator for a small town like Cradock. Some of them have been here for more than 20 years.

“For every guest at all times, there is a friendly smile, a helpful touch and time to chat. This is the real magic of our hotel,” said Lisa.

Houses that are over 150 years old often need tweaks and repairs.

Few people of any age could keep up with Sandra. She was a woman powered by tea, starting with the five cups that Michael made her every morning. This was their special time together. Then she would be off and running. By 8:30 am, while guests were having breakfast, Sandra was walking up and down the street checking what needed to be done, after having a quick chat with night porter Vernon Douglas.

In the afternoon, Sandra would usually be found sitting at a small table in the reception area, welcoming arriving guests in person, going over the rooming list and having intermittent meetings with Lisa, Cherie, Dave and the hotel’s unofficial majordomo, Amos Nteta.

They brought us to the Karoo

Our connection to Michael and Sandra Antrobus began in 2003, while we were on a magazine assignment through the Eastern Cape and staying overnight at Die Tuishuise. We interviewed them over a long, at times hilarious, lunch out at Longacre Farm.

Michael and Sandra Antrobus on the banks of the Great Fish River, which runs past their farm, Longacre.

This extraordinary couple made such an impression on us that within a few hours, we were thinking: these are the kind of people we want to live with. They were kind, humorous, gracious, hospitable, plucky, well informed and generous with their knowledge. It was not long before we bought a house in Cradock, made the permanent move from Joburg and put down roots in this little river town.

The best mentor

Over the years and during all manner of extended road trips and local adventures together, Michael became a special mentor to us. There was so much going on in his head. He could recite poetry from Guy Butler, he could name the geological layers and special qualities of the Karoo Supergroup, he knew the arcane names of fossils, he told us not only about the grasses but about their various uses, and he pointed out the palatable bossies in the veld.

We called him a philosopher-farmer, but in reality Michael Antrobus was much more. Much more. He saw the whole picture, how the geology and the soil and the biodynamics underpinned everything. He delighted in lending us books he thought might help us really get to know the Karoo.

Michael observed everything. He remembered conversations from long ago. He taught us about the issues that plagued local farmers. He delighted in making puns, both crackingly funny and excruciatingly bad.

The Mountain Zebra National Park out there on Cradock’s doorstep was, in Michael’s opinion, just one of the finest in the country, especially from a scenic point of view. He told us how the English played chess up in the steeple of the Moederkerk and out at Saltpeterkrans, heliographing their moves to one another, and how the local boers, who spoke excellent English, would intercept the messages.

When he and Sandra moved to town, he referred to himself as a second-hand farmer.

“What can an old farmer do? Well, as a friend of mine said, we can still count sheep, but they must darem come slowly.”

And each time we published a new book on the Karoo, Michael and Sandra always got the very first copy, handed over with love and admiration.

Sandra Antrobus in front of the 40 Something, one of the distinctive Tuishuise cottages of Market Street, Cradock.

Michael passed away on 16 July 2018 and Sandra on 8 April 2025. But their legacy will live on in Cradock’s Market Street, through their legendary hospitality and via their children.